About Tobago: The Tobagonians

About Tobago

An introduction to Tobago for first-time visitors, by Rachel Harries-Darke

• Picture postcard beaches
• Palm tree-lined golf courses
• An amazing underwater world
• Beautiful coral reefs
• Fascinating wildlife including manta rays and giant turtles
• A range of accommodation for all tastes and all budgets
• Incredibly friendly locals; a safe environment
• Small enough to make exploring in a day possible, but not so small that you feel claustrophobic
• A huge range of restaurants with something to suit all tastes
• Enchanting hamlets and villages, untouched by commercialism
• Contrasting landscape offering dense forest, calm blue Caribbean sea, and steep hills
• Bustling capital – Scarborough – quite unlike any other world capital!
• This is Tobago! And the huge number of repeat visitors say a lot about its enduring appeal… We hope you will love Tobago as much as we do when you visit this delightful island.

So what will Tobago offer you? Well, you won’t get the plethora of five-star resorts that Barbados boasts, nor will you get the nightlife that Jamaica serves up. If you want those holidays, go there. The pace of life in Tobago comes in two speeds: slow and slower. No worries, take it easy, chill… Tobago is the place to go to lie back and relax.

Visitors talk of stepping off the plane and feeling the stress being sucked out of their body. Broad smiles greet you at the taxi rank, the crystal clear Caribbean glints at you as you travel on to your accommodation. And a cold Carib beer or refreshing rum punch will greet you at your destination. One of the best things about Tobago is that it welcomes you.

Your stay might be at one of the handful of all-inclusive resorts on the island, but we at myTobago hope to encourage you out of those four walls and to explore the island - the rainforest, the villages and the many small restaurants dotted around the island. If you want to stay at one of the smaller establishments, we hope to help you find the right one.

Tobago is just 8 miles wide and 26 long, but it takes a few hours to get from one end to the other. Another charm of Tobago is the lack of infrastructure. The best way to dodge the potholes, whizz around and have a whole lot of fun is by hiring a jeep. The most developed areas of Tobago are in the Lowlands - in the southwest. Here you’ll find Crown Point International Airport, a few smart hotels along the Caribbean coast, Buccoo Reef, the fine white sandy beaches of Pigeon Point and Store Bay, and Scarborough – the colourful capital and port.

Tobago’s south coast, pounded by the Atlantic Ocean, is dotted with charming fishing villages, of which Speyside is probably the most popular. The north Caribbean coast has many beautiful coral sand beaches like Castara, Englishman’s Bay, Parlatuvier and Bloody Bay, often deserted except for a few fishermen. The most northerly of the villages along this coast, Charlotteville, lies where the Atlantic and Caribbean meet, and, like Speyside, has impressive coral reefs - many within swimming distance of the beach - ideal for diving and snorkelling.

The eastern side of the island rises steeply into the hills which make up the central Main Ridge. Then main rainforest is located here, a rainforest that falls sharply away to the palm-fringed, sandy beaches below. Dripping with moisture and shrouded in mist, the rainforest is a paradise for naturalists and birdwatchers.

Finally, there’s Little Tobago – about 1.5 miles (2.5km) out to sea and just 1.3 miles (2km) long at its widest point. Little Tobago is an uninhabited seabird sanctuary off Speyside. Local fishermen happily take visitors to see the island with its resident birdlife, including terns, boobies and the red-billed tropic bird.

So, wherever you choose to stay and whatever you choose to do while you're there, you’ll see that Tobago offers something for just about everyone. If you’re a diver, an ornithologist, a nature lover, a sun worshipper, a lover of fresh food, a laid-back lifestyle, a people-watcher, a beach babe, surf dude, sailor, romantic couple, oldie, young person or on a tight budget, then you’ll love Tobago, just like us.

The Tobagonian People

Without any question of doubt, Tobago's most endearing resource is its endemic population - the Tobagonians. Often initially somewhat offhand, it normally takes little to unleash their humour, hospitality and huge pride in the island. Once you have 'connected' with Tobagonians, the island is bound to capture a portion of your heart.

We recommend that first-time visitors, in particular, read our articles on the Tobagonian people.

An introduction to the island's secret charm

I am regularly asked “would I like Tobago?” Without meaning to be offensive, I am always tempted to reply “would Tobago like you?”

No destination in the world is right for everyone and Tobago is no exception. Many visitors will fall in love with the island. On the other hand, a holiday there could be purgatory to others. Fifteen minutes of research on this website will determine which category you’re likely to be in.

So, let’s start with the downside…

• If you want the best beaches in the Caribbean, forget Tobago
• If you want guaranteed calm seas without a ripple on the surface, forget Tobago
• If you want glitzy multi-star hotels to rival Dubai, forget Tobago
• If you want Michelan-starred restaurants and extensive menus, forget Tobago
• If you want a wide choice of non-stop action and activity, forget Tobago
• If you want all-night entertainment, forget Tobago
• If you want retail therapy, forget Tobago
• If you want Far-Eastern levels of service, forget Tobago

So, given these apparent negatives, how does this island manage to create Tobago-junkies like Jill and myself and the many readers who contribute to our forum and visit the island time after time?

The answer is simple. It is the endemic population of Tobago that make the island so very special.

Before I expand on this vital point, please allow me to qualify my earlier comments.

Beaches: Tobago has many beautiful beaches. They are very natural and often consist of dark volcanic sand. However, you will find white coral sand beaches and others with every shade of yellow in between.

Seas: Yes, the seas can be vigorous at certain times, but they can also be calm enough for swimmers and snorkelers of every ability.

Hotels: The island has a small but excellent range of good hotels to suit all budgets and preferences.

Restaurants: Menu choices are limited because most restaurants prefer to offer fresh local produce rather than frozen imported.

Activities: Nobody would be daft enough to compare Tobago with Disneyland, but there are more than enough sporting activities and excursions to keep active youngsters (and oldsters) happy.

Entertainment: OK, I surrender. Mind you, visitors don’t seem to want to much entertainment; something about the vibe of the island means that even the teenagers are falling asleep by 10pm.

Retail Therapy: Once again I admit defeat. You could always buy a carved coconut shell for that dreaded aunt who always buys you naff socks for Christmas.

Service: The ‘wrong’ sort of visitor is going to return home saying that Tobagonians are unfriendly and provide terrible service. Others will instantly, and without realising how, turn the magic key and unleash the spectacular warmth of the islanders (although even these visitors will admit that ‘service’ is somewhat more relaxed than they are used to).

What is so special about the Tobagonian people and how and why do they differ from other Caribbeans? Can I answer this in two ways. Firstly, through an article (Article 1) written for us by a born and bred Tobagonian, Carlos Dillon, Director and General Manager of the excellent Mount Irvine Bay Hotel & Golf Club. My own take on the subject follows (Article 2).

Hopefully the two articles will provide first-timers with a better understanding of Tobago’s secret charm and help them to get the very best out of this beautiful island and its warm and welcoming endemic population.

• Introduction
• Tobagonians

ABout Tobago: Tobagonians - The Inside View

An introduction to the people of Tobago, from the perspective of a Tobagonian

Henry Iles Woodcock, Chief Justice of the Island in the 1860's, wrote in his book "A History of Tobago" and I quote:

"I cannot deny myself the pleasure of bearing witness to the kind of friendly feeling which prevails among the inhabitants of Tobago. I know no place where complexional prejudices less prevail. It has been truly said by Dr. Channing that "of all parties, those founded on different social relations are the most pernicious. From this evil Tobago is happily free".

Some 145 years hence, one can get the same feeling of serenity on this island - a jewel in the Caribbean.

Statistical surveys will inform you that Tobago's population of 55,000 residents is made up of 90% of African origin with the other 10% representing all the other races on earth. So, if you want to know about the Tobagonian, don’t look for race or ethnicity; look for where in the island(s) he comes from. Those who come from around Scarborough (the capital town) vs those from Delaford, Speyside, Charlotteville (Windward); those from Castara, L'Anse Fourmi (Northside); vs those from Canaan, Bon Accord (Bottomside or Westside). You will also find Tobagonians who want you to know who they are by the dialect they speak. But, do not expect the real Tobago dialect from those who come from around the main centre - Scarborough. Then consider the fact that so many older "Gonians" (like myself), 60 years and over, talk of the Tobago they used to know and the younger generation who have lost the Tobagonian way.

The Tobagonian way was: As a cluster of small communities, families within them took care of each other's families. When women cooked, it is always said that there was sufficient for the "unseen guests". The unseen guests could be grandparents, Godparents, or any other old villager. You must remember that there were few telephones, if any, so visitors were expected to drop in unexpectedly.

Those who worked the land did something called "len han", a kind of co-operative farming which lessened the burden especially on men who had younger families, or those who did not have extended family. (No one must be hungry).

When there was a death in the community, a conch shell was blown throughout the villages to inform the people. In the spirit of co-operation, the community rallied around the bereaved to build the coffin, to cook, clean and generally to remove the burdens of the bereaved family. Harvest celebrations, (a sort of religious thanks-giving), christenings, weddings were all community affairs. And when guests leave, they were given a "parting gift".

Now-a-days, the young Tobagonian by-and-large mimics a city-type sophistication. Independence of family, of the individual is the norm. Children may not know relatives beyond uncles and aunts and perhaps first cousins. However, the people of Charlotteville, the remotest community on the north-eastern Caribbean side of the island, still say with pride that they have not lost the Tobagonian way. They say that if you want to know what Tobago was like-- "come to Charlotteville"" !!!!!!!! But Castara, Parlauvier, L'Anse Fourmi, Delaford, Speyside........ they will all make a similar claim.

Notwithstanding my ramblings above, you will find the Tobagonians in general are a deep but warm people. You respect them and they respect you in turn. You befriend them and you have a friend for life. He/she is willing to share whatever little he/she has and looks for nothing in return.

Because in most instances the Tobagonian owns land he/she inherited from the foreparents, there is a keen sense of pride that permeates the Tobagonian being. And this pride of person has allowed him to be at peace with himself, with others and with everything around him.

The last two surveys that were done in which outgoing tourists were interviewed went like this, in part:

• Why did you choose Tobago for your holiday? Answer : For sand, sea and sun 65%
• What did you like most about Tobago? Answer: The people 85%

No one up to now, has not been able (in my view) to ably describe or put the positive vibrations about the people of Tobago into realistic marketing jargon. But then, maybe it is something that should be left as is, so that whosoever comes to the island can "experience" the feeling of the people and return home, leaving with only pleasant memories, while leaving only footprints on the sands.

Carlos B Dillon, a born Tobagonian

About Tobago: Tobagonians - The Outside View

Getting the best from Tobagonian people, from the perspective of a regular visitor

The unique character of teh Tobagonian people almost certainly lies in their island’s history.

As Carlos mentioned in Article 1, over 90% of Tobago’s population are of African origin. Their forbears were brought to the island’s sugar plantations as slaves. In 1807 slavery was abolished in the British dominions, but it was 1838 before the transition was complete and every slave freed. Due to a shortage of labour on Tobago, plantation owners gave former slaves plots of land on which to build a home and cultivate their own crops as an incentive to continue working on the plantation.

In 1884, the company that owned around 80% of the plantations went bust, bringing about the financial collapse of Tobago. Estates were sold for ten shillings an acre. The peasants took advantage of this offer, but this meant that even less labour was available for work on the plantations.

The bountiful resources of the rain forest and sea enabled the peasants to build homes and eke a simple but adequate living through subsistence agriculture. The rich coastal waters provided more than enough protein. They lacked for little and were dependent upon no one. Time had little meaning. Without any industry, family and community became the main focus for islanders.

From this heritage sprang the very great pride that is so apparent in every modern Tobagonian and which makes them different to most natives of the region. As land and property owners, they hold their heads high and feel subservient to no one. The downside to this pride is that jobs in the ‘service’ industry have always been treated with low esteem.

The Tobagonian people have always placed paramount importance on educating their children. The opening of the Tobago Hospitality & Tourism Institute during recent years has assisted in raising the population’s consciousness about the service industry. Locals can now envisage owning and managing of key businesses in the service sector. Of course there are still those who are very conscious of their background in slavery and who still associate ‘service’ with ‘servitude’. Jobs in ‘service’ are still perceived as being of low status by many people.

Against this, Tobagonian people are by nature a friendly and hospitable people. They not only have great pride in themselves, but also in their island. Show any interest and you’re likely to be dragged off on a spontaneous tour, with nothing more than a smile expected in return. Understanding and respecting this pride is the secret to getting the best from Tobagonians and therefore Tobago. The secret is simple: respect will be repaid many times over.

It is easy for first-timers to get off to a bad start with Tobagonians because of the ‘pride/servitude’ issue. Waiting staff around the world develop a remarkable ability to conduct their duties without making eye contact with patrons. Tobagonians have refined it to a fine art. It can be hilarious watching a waiter or waitress ignore a demanding first-timer who has had the temerity to snap their fingers and bellow “Get me ….”.

Many Tobagonians will not suffer disrespect silently. The island has full employment and most native ‘Gonians value respect above a wage packet. If you show disrespect, you are more than likely to be told so; quietly, politely, but firmly. I recall the Manager of a top hotel telling me how one of his waiting staff quietly scolded a foreign Ambassador during an official reception after the Ambassador belittled one of his assistants in front of guests. Good for her!

During my last visit to Tobago, I was discussing the subject of customs and manners with a Tobagonian lady who owns a successful restaurant in one of the outlying villages. I commented on how rude I considered it to pass someone in a rural environment without acknowledgment (I was speaking generally, not specifically about Tobago). The lady agreed. However, she also said that if she was passing a foreigner, she felt ‘presumptuous’ to speak first.

This comment surprised me greatly. This lady is a pillar of the community, well respected and liked and highly familiar with the strange ways of foreigners. I found it sad that someone of her ‘status’ could feel “presumptuous” to address a (white) foreigner before they had spoken to her. It may be the exception, not the rule, but it does shows how deeply ingrained the taint of slavery can be. Most of us never give the subject a thought. Maybe we should.

When passing a local, take the initiative and bid them a quiet "Good morning". It will be unusual for the politeness not to be returned. Pass the same individual a few days later and the chances are that they will greet you first, often with obvious enthusiasm and friendliness.

Your first impression may well be that many Tobagonians are haughty and unfriendly. Do not be put off by their initial countenance. I was brought up in the region and taught that to most West Indians, what is known as a ‘polite’ face represents sober attention. Smiles are reserved for something funny, or someone well-known and liked. Similarly, interrupting someone’s conversation is considered extremely bad manners, so a waiter approaching you with a ‘polite’ face and not saying a word while you hum and hah and ponder over what to order is actually being very polite – not unfriendly or haughty, as you might think.

Of course times have changed since I was a child. Some, or even most, of my observations are less relevant these days, due to the effects of modern life, television and exposure to overseas visitors. However, awareness of these tips can do no harm, particularly when interacting with older Tobagonians, and those in more rural areas of the island.

The two main Tobagonian characteristics of pride and respect are followed closely by manners. Good manners are vitally important and it is very easy to unintentionally cause offence by exhibiting what are seen as ‘bad’ manners. To be described as ‘polite’ by a villager is just about the highest praise you can expect.

A very useful tip is to start every conversation with “Good morning” or “Good evening”, as appropriate, and close it with “OK” as you walk away. A quiet “Good morning” as you enter anywhere that locals gather, such as a mini-mart, bar or café, can do wonders. Do NOT abbreviate it to “Hi”, or even “Morning” and, more important still, NEVER, ever, use sickening platitudes like “Have a nice day”. This is an important point to remember when driving in the more remote parts of the island. If you stop to ask directions and start a conversation with "Can you tell me the way..." you are likely to receive nothing but a cold stare. Start with "Good morning, can you tell me...." and they are likely drop what they were doing, jump in the car and take you there personally.

One tip I always remember is that when shaking hands, do so gently and lightly. You may consider a firm, hearty hand-shake as polite, but West Indians favour a lighter variant. Similarly, avoid physical contact. Back-slapping and other touchy-feely expressions are not generally appreciated.

One very frustrating West Indian characteristic, particularly to a blunt Yorkshireman like myself, is their dislike of showing or expressing disapproval. This is something that affects villa owners more than ordinary visitors. You do something that offends the maid, possibly unintentionally, and she simply doesn’t show up again. She would never say anything to you and the worst thing is that you never know the reason. You could easily make the same mistake again.

The pace of life on the island is so slow that it is almost stationary. Given the nature of island life, time has little, if any, meaning. If you are to appreciate Tobago, you must switch off your northern concept of time as soon as your aircraft lands. The best thing you can do is to pack your watch in your suitcase. Nothing runs to time. A business that claims an opening time of 9am will probably open sometime before 11am. I remember one busy petrol (gas) station closing for two hours in the middle of the day because the owner was tired. The gentle shrug and non-judgemental “He gone for sleep, man” from another driver, sat patiently waiting for fuel, said everything one needs to know about Tobagonian nature. If you let your frustration show, you will immediately cross the divide.

Finally, those of us from Britain and North America, in particular, have grown used to informal terms of address and of immediately calling strangers by their first-name. You may find it difficult to persuade many Tobagonians to reciprocate. Try not to embarrass them by forcing the issue. If they insist on calling you by your title and surname – they are simply being polite. You will make a big impression if you return the compliment. Obviously this applies more to older people than younger people, but by addressing a lady as “Miss …” you are sure to win lots of points and unleash that special magic.

It is a sad reflection on modern life that these guidelines apply less to younger people than older and less in urban areas like Crown Point and Scarborough, where residents are now well-used to foreigners. However, even in these areas you will be treading on safe ground if you apply these guidelines. The courtesy you extend will be repaid many times over as you unlock those huge smiles that rise all the way from the feet.

And those smiles are the reason that we love Tobago so much and return year after year.

The bottom line is that polite, well-mannered people who treat Tobagonians with respect and consideration release the magic without even realising how .