Tobago is more closely related geologically to the South American mainland than it is to the other islands of the Caribbean to the north.
Tobago’s major topographical feature is a central spine of forest-clad hard rock known as “The Main Ridge”, starting from the north-east, stretching along the northern part of the island, reaching a height of 1,860 feet (549m), with no peak in particular, but with steep ridges and gullies, until the land eventually flattens out to the south-western part of the island into low-lying land of coral formation which is called “Lowlands”.
Trinidad and Tobago lie just outside the hurricane belt, but the occasional storm do occur, though not violent, but for one instance in 1963, a hurricane named “Flora” devastated Tobago, causing widespread damage to property and crops. The environment was seriously affected that there was a notable change in the natural vegetation, as well as the wildlife, particularly the birds. Some of the species disappeared for a very long time. However, through nature, regenerative growth was naturally put in place and slowly, and gradually, the situation improved.
Because so much land had been cleared for agriculture, the natural vegetation of Tobago, that is, the original vegetation is to be found mainly in the protected main Ridge Forest Reserve and adjoining Crown Lands. Tobago’s Main Ridge boasts the oldest legally protected forest reserve of its kind in the hemisphere.
This ridge is more than two centuries old and was brought about by the superior ecological understanding engendered in “Soames Jenyns” of England by a scientist called “Hales” around 1774 or 1775. Hales explained to Jenyns the relationship between trees and rainfall, thus alerting him to the possible danger for Tobago that lay in the destruction of acres and acres of forested land by planters intent upon growing sugar-cane. Jenyns, luckily was at that time one of the Lord’s Commissioners of Trade and Plantations, and was responsible for settling Tobago under British rule after 1763. He was therefore in a position to effect change, and in 1775, he declared the area known as the Main Ridge Reserve to be Crown Reserve. Of course, the planter faction in the British Parliament did not easily accept his proposal, but he managed finally to convince them that the destruction of the forest would result in total denudation of the land, and they eventually yielded to his entreaties. The Ordinance was signed in 1776 by “Governor Sir William Young” and stated that the land had been reserved to the Crown for the purpose of attracting frequent showers of rain upon which fertility of the lands in these climates doth entirely depend.
(1) HISTORY OF TOBAGO.
Long before the arrival of Columbus, Tobago, like every other Caribbean island, had her share of Amerindian settlers. The Caribs and Arawaks dwelled together. The Caribs, believed to have been the warlike, aggressive race, drove all the weaker tribes before them, constantly attacking. The Arawaks were the native peoples of the Greater Antilles. Their numbers over the years reduced constantly due to constant war with the Caribs and also because of interbreeding.
The Caribs’ violent antipathy to the Europeans was immediate upon contact. All this attack was about defense of their homeland. They frequently attacked Spanish landing parties, killing many and taking prisoners whom were used as slaves. This caused the Spaniards who were themselves intent upon claiming territory and plundering a great deal of annoyance and discomfort.
In 1511, the King of Spain was compelled to issue a “Cedula- a type of Royal decree” which would deeply affect the whole Indian population in the Caribbean, for the Cedula opened the way for the enslavement and destruction of all Indians who offered any resistance. In the end, despite the very courageous Caribs, the Europeans were too formidable an opponent and their weaponry was far superior to their bows and arrows. The warlike Caribs were vanquished and virtually wiped out. Many committed suicide, their indomitable spirits choosing death in favor of captivity.
By the time Columbus spotted the island from the distance, he named the island “Assumption”. But Tobago had already been named “Tabaco” by the Caribs because of her long, slender, pipe-like shape, resembling the long stemmed pipe they used for smoking. The English word for “Tabaco” is “Tobacco”.
Europe and Tobago
The true period of Tobago’s history really started in the 18th century after the British rule was established. However, the 17th century was very dramatic for Tobago. There was quite a lot of adventure between the Europeans. Tobago was like a shuttlecock, battered back and forth between the settlers from the different countries, with the ever warring Caribs and local conditions such as fever and diseases. The English, French, Courlanders (from Latvia), Dutch were the European countries that suffered the greatest losses in the Tobago enterprise. Much of this period, Europe was at war and as a consequence, that war was brought to Tobago. If ever the Dutch attempted to settle, whatever was built and discovered, then the English or French would destroy it and vice versa. The Courlanders also made Tobago a target of colonizing zeal in their scramble to gain overseas colonies. Holland and Courland were allies and they made several attempts to establish large settlements .
Under the power of a Grant from Charles I of England, the Courlanders set their minds and hearts upon Tobago and made no fewer than three determined attempts to established large settlements, all at “Jacobus Bay” (Great Courland). While these settlements were successful for a period of time, destruction always overtook them eventually and Tobago was for much of the time deserted, particularly after the Caribs died out.
Spain did not have any interest in Tobago whatsoever and therefore made no attempt to settle. The Spaniards were intent upon their search for “El Dorado”, the City of Gold. As the Spaniards already settled in Trinidad, they were wary of the closeness of Tobago, and that made them wary, for their hold in Trinidad was very tenuous and the Indians constantly harassed them. So, when they learned of the Dutch two forts in Tobago and even a trading post at Point Galera (on the north-eastern end of Trinidad) and their actual friendliness with the same Indians, they became alarmed, fearing the result of an Indian-Dutch alliance. So, “Diego de Escobar” then Governor of Trinidad decided to attack first and they destroyed the smaller Dutch fort in Rockly Bay and took prisoners. But apart from this concern, the Spaniards left Tobago alone.
But the Dutch, like the Courlanders, were very determined and persevering. In the end, the Dutch did managed to establish a large settlement at Rockly Bay in the present town of Scarborough. They built a fort- “Dutch Fort” just facing the present Scarborough port. They also developed plantations and sugar works, they also constructed the Great House, they brought numerous slaves and servants, cattle and horses and a thriving community was developed.
After 40 long years of hard work and determination of all of the Dutch’s efforts, as she was now enjoying the fruits of toil the inevitable happened in 1665 when British privateers under the agreement with the Governor of Jamaica, destroyed the settlement.
One of the greatest battles that took place in Tobago was fought in 1677 between the Dutch and the French. The French who were seeking revenge for the depredations of the Dutch upon their colonies in Marie Galante and Cayenne. The French sailed their ships into Rockly Bay close enough and set on fore many Dutch ships. This battle lasted seven hours. Of the 14 French ships engaged, only 7 were able to come out of Rockly Bay and the French losses amounted to 1,200 killed and wounded. The Dutch lost their entire fleet and half of their total crew of 800 men. The French returned later that year to finish the job and they literally blew the fort into the sky.
Several years after the Dutch defeat by the French, repeated attempts were made by England, Holland, France and Courland to establish themselves in Tobago. This little island Tobago had become a sort of “no-man’s land” until 1705 when a French squadron started using the island as a base for attacking over English West Indian islands and they carried out raids all over the Southern Caribbean.
By 1714, the many changes of settlers in Tobago had left a number of blacks free on the island. Also, that same year, the Indian Chief of Tobago appealed to the Governor of Barbados for protection against them. That appeal was assured by the Governor, and by so doing, reinforced Britain’s claim to sole sovereignty of the island.
In 1725, Barbados in response to an order to establish a settlement in Tobago advised the British Government that until France and Britain could settle matters between them, it would be pointless to try starting any English settlement in Tobago only to have it destroyed by the French. Barbadian settlers also were unwilling to risk such a venture.
1748 saw the French from Martinique landing troops in Tobago and they built a fort. The British complained to the French Government who eventually disowned the act, and both governments agreed to declare the island neutral. Subjects of both nations left the island and the fort was destroyed. But it was not long before the French had re-established their settlement. Fourteen years later, in 1762, the English recaptured Tobago and the “Treaty of Paris” ceded it to Britain in 1763.
The British proceeded to include Tobago in their plans for colonization of the Windward Islands, whereby the island was put with Grenada, St.Vincent, and Dominica under a Governor-in-chief whose residence was in Grenada.
Now that the defense of the island was safe and secured for the first time in 200 years, settlers from Europe and other West Indian islands began arriving in large numbers bringing their slaves, personal property and a good deal of capital for investment. A lot of land was available, and the first Lieutenant-Governor of Tobago “Alexander Brown” earliest acts was to issue a proclamation concerning that land. Tobago had to be divided into 7 parishes and roads were to be mapped out. Land for sale was offered at very attractive rates.
Approximately 54,400 acres of land were sold under this proclamation.
The first record of purchase is in the name of “James Simpson” for lot No:1 at Courland bay.
Georgetown, near modern-day Studley Park at Barbados Bay was the first town established.
This town at the time was intended to be the seat of government and the first meeting of the Legislative Council was held there, but its administrative importance did not last because it was felt to be unhealthy, being too near to a swamp and the capital was eventually moved to “Scarborough”. The fort that was built to protect Georgetown had been called “Granby Fort”. The name remains, but all of the fortifications were removed and sent to “Fort King George” in Scarborough.
Granby nevertheless have some claim to fame as the place from which the very first shipment of sugar produced by the British on Studley Park Estate was shipped; it was loaded onto “the Dolly” in 1770.
Progress came to Tobago and every aspect of her development was planned. Law, government, business, population growth were coming together. Sugar of course was the island’s principal crop. Price of sugar on the British market was high and the island itself was ideally suited to its production.
The development of Tobago in 1768 was so impressive that the Secretary of State gave his permission for Tobago to have a colonial legislature. A General Council consisting only of planters was appointed and a council chamber was built and in use. Not too long after that, the Legislature of Tobago came into being with an upper house consisting of appointed members and a lower house of elected members.
But all was not well in Tobago. From 1764 and onwards, there had been large imports of slaves to supply the demands of the plantations. In 1770, there was a slave revolt at Queen’s bay. A now famous slave, “Sandy” and his followers, wanting to be free men, rose up in violence against those who held them in bondage. However, the uprising failed. Some of his men, women included were taken, tortured and hanged as a deterrent to future insurrectionists. Sandy himself was believed to have fled to Trinidad. The lesson however, was not at all well learned by the slaves, for there were two more uprisings in 1771 and 1774, which were speedily put down by the militia.
Tobago had become an industrial island, powered by slavery. There were sugar-cane and cotton estates, windmills to power the needed water and great houses for owners of the estates and their families.
In 1775, disaster struck Tobago in the form of infestation of ants which destroyed the sugar-cane plantations from the windward coast right across the island. Sugar had to be abandoned as a staple in favor of cotton, and much capital was lost considerably.
In 1777, entered the Americans. With the British war in progress, American privateers arrived in armed boats and raided the island, escaping with what they could in a hit and run exercise.
In 1778, an American squadron of two ships, three brigs and a schooner were on their way to capture Tobago when they ran into the British 60-gunner “Yarmouth” which put an end to their ambitions. But Britain having to deploy ships and troops to fight the conflict against the Americans was weak in the Caribbean. France in the meantime joined the American War against Britain, saw their weakness and took Grenada in 1779. In April of 1781, French ships made their entry in Tobago, captured the island and took the Governor as a prisoner.
Tobago was under French rule once again, for 12 years once again. This time, the French did not change either the Constitution or laws which had been established under British rule, and plantation development continued between 1781 and 1793. Two major events of the period were the revolt among the French troops in which Scarborough was burned down and the hurricane of 1790 which brought widespread destruction.
15th April 1793, at the start of the Revolutionary War, the British recaptured Tobago, re-established the legal and political set-up and made the island entirely independent of any other West Indian colony. But the Treaty of Amiens in 1802 gave Tobago back to the French who again refrained from making any administrative changes.
In 1803, war had erupted again between France and Britain when a British naval force invaded Tobago, putting it right back into British hands for good this time, although it was not until 1814 that the Treaty of Paris ratified this.
The slave trade was abolished in all British dominions in 1807 and that carried serious labour implications, for places like Tobago were totally dependent upon slave labour. Emancipation and the apprenticeship system came into force in 1834 , and even though Tobago shared in the rejoicing that took place throughout the British West Indies, the outlook from the planters’ viewpoint was not so good, for a shortage of labour due to planters’ inability to pay the ex-slaves a wage brought many difficulties. The land was not worked efficiently, crops were poor, agriculture was in a bad state and many estates went out of cultivation.
Despite all the problems, the infrastructure of Tobago kept developing. Schools were founded, the West Indies Bank opened in Scarborough, churches of different denominations opened their doors and the Royal Mail Steam Packet Company started calling at Tobago.
In 1851, the population of Tobago soared to high numbers and was further augmented on two separate occasions by liberated Africans from St. Helena who were brought in by the British Government to ease the labour shortage. The police force was strengthened in 1854, but then the British withdrew her troops from Fort King George and the inhabitants had to make their own arrangements to preserve law and order.
From the economic viewpoint, the situation was not good. The sugar industry was declining steadily and exports of by-products were in serious decline.
In1884, with the sugar industry gone forever, Tobago went into a financial collapse. Unfortunately there was no other industry to take the place of sugar. Estates were sold very cheap and many peasants took advantage of this.
The sugar crisis in the West Indies was general, but Tobago was in a particular state of depression because not enough of her soil was being cultivated and consequently capital was low. She could no longer stand alone. In January 1889, the new United Colony of Trinidad and Tobago was created and Tobago retained a subordinate legislature and separate finance. Ten years later, in January 1899, Tobago was made a Ward, that is, an administrative district of Trinidad and Tobago, losing its subordinate legislature and separate finances. A new era of history had begun.
(2) THE PEOPLE OF TOBAGO.
In the mid-eighteenth century, when serious European settlement began, the original inhabitants of Tobago, the Amerindians had almost completely died out and just a few remained.
Europe, specifically Great Britain had a significant social and economic impact upon Tobago, although the races mixed together producing “free coloreds’ ”, the physical make-up and general complexion of the average Tobagonian is definitely African and has always been so. The African population always exceeded the white population by a very large amount. It is the descendants of the freed men and women who make up the present African population of Tobago. The people of today have inherited many of the customs of their African ancestors.
Tobago people are very proud people- proud of their heritage and proud of their culture. They have a lot of love and respect towards their African identity, for this identity has never been lost, nor does it seem to be in any danger of being lost, because Tobagonians live their African-ness. They love their land Tobago, for there is their paradise.
The island Tobago is like a large village comprised of a number of smaller villages, and the village tie is very important. The vital inner life of Tobago goes on in its villages- christenings, weddings, harvests, funerals- all the significant human contacts take place primarily in the village. Two of the most important elements of Tobago’s cultural configuration are: kinship and love of the land. Kinship ties are very strong. Tobago is a place of tribes. People belonging to a tribe, and other tribes recognize you by the family name, wherever you may go. Although descent is through the male line, the woman’s family is also recognized and respected. However, Tobagonians believe that to hear the sound of a man’s voice in the home as the head of the household, and women will put up with much in order to ensure that their children enjoy this benefit.
Love of land in the Tobagonian is bred into the genes. Probably this is because of the times of slavery when they had no land whatsoever, they have developed a remarkable affinity for property. From the time a child is born, parents start thinking of putting aside money for a bit of land, or for a cow, goat or sheep that will help bring more money for the land. Having it, owning it is the important thing. They may plant the land, but never build, but it will always be there. “Land does not spoil” is the saying in Tobago. Selling land in Tobago certainly out of the question.
The rise in tourism in Tobago had put pressure on the Tobagonian principle of “no sale”. Demand for land is very high and the offered prices is good because of the dollar exchange; so the present day conflict for the Tobagonian who might be rich in land, but cash poor is very real. Young people needing money for education, business, daily living, put pressure on the older folks to sell and often win through, but their fight is never easy.
Sugar and cocoa, the original cash crops of the settler planters then are no longer in existence, but agriculture is still practiced to a considerable extent, even though the yield is not enough to supply the local population and must be supplemented by imports from nearby Trinidad; yet still, Tobagonians do have a way of making a good living for themselves off the land. Animal farming is very important, for there are numerous cows, goats, sheep, pigs. There is no shortage of meat in the market. There is hardly a yard that does not have its resident chickens, sheep or goats. It is very customary to see a small boy leading sheep out to pasture in the early morning, or a man or woman at evening time walking purposefully home, charges trotting along with them- without leading strings.
Although meat is plentiful in Tobago, the true staple protein of the true Tobagonian is “fish”, and there’s always plenty of it. Fishing is a major industry and it is the pride of the island that fresh fish is always available all over the island every day.
(3) FOOD.
Tobagonians just love food. Generations of Tobago cooks have used their traditional resources (ground provisions, meats, fish, fruits), blended them imaginatively improvised by using them with other foods and succeeded in evolving a cuisine that is lively and delightful on the palate. Tobagonians believe in their “sauce thickeners” such as coconut milk and cassava flour to add to their stewed meats. Ground provisions such as yam, sweet potatoes, dasheen, tania, eddoes, Cush Cush form the main diet of any Tobagonian’s home, for their traditional types of foods are highly carbohydrate.
Tobagonians who were very poor in the times and who couldn’t afford to buy the meats, had to do with the provisions grown by them, together with fish that could‘ve been afforded, the true Tobagonians found ways and means in improvising their means of making their dishes tasty. Through trial and error came tasty dishes such as yam and cheese pies, sautéed eddoes with onions, lightly fried crushed tania seasoned with thyme and black pepper, hot tania cakes and many more dishes that to this day is now enjoyed in restaurants by the well to do people.
The breadfruit is also a Tobagonian staple. They are very fond of breadfruit and they think themselves fortunate to own a tree. Their saying is that their children will never starve with a breadfruit tree in the yard.
Other notable tasty foods of Tobago are the ever popular curried crab and dumplins, steamed or fried fish with callaloo (made from the leaves from the dasheen plant with ochroes and seasonings, not forgetting the coconut milk and a big red hot pepper), and coo-coo (made of ground corn and ochroes), cassava pone, coconut drops, smoked herring, salt fish buljol (dried fish with olive oil, onions, tomatoes and other seasonings) with avocado on the side, fried bake, roast coconut bake, local Tobago cocoa which is specially grated and boiled with spices, a specialty in itself.
Pepper sauces are also a favorite in Tobago. There are different concoctions of different versions of sauces using sour cherries, coreilli, carrot, Christophe, cauliflower, salad beans, etc. Many of these sauces are very hot, but there is the seasoning peppers (pimentoes) which is not hot, but very tasty that can be substituted in making the sauce that will also greatly enhance foods.
You can get fish in abundance anywhere in Tobago. One can get fish that is biting; be it snapper, kingfish, shark, bonito, carite, barracuda, dolphin (the fish, not the mammal), grouper, flying fish. In Tobago, fish is either caught by (pulling seine) or seeing the fishing boats coming ashore and fishermen bringing in the days catch. Conch, a sea creature that lives in a hard shell is another popular sea food. When curried or stewed (with coconut naturally) or even used in a salad, it is very good and tasty.
“Pacroe water” is Tobago’s totally local food. This is a broth in which a small brown sea-urchin is known as “Pacroe’ or sea cockroach is boiled.
“Whelks” is another favorite. This shell fish lives in an attractive silver and black shell. Whelks are very tasty once prepared by someone who knows how to do it properly.
“Goat water”, also known as “mannish water” is prepared by cooking special parts of a male goat.
Black pudding and chicken or pig souse is another Tobago’s favorite. Most of the butchering is done on Thursdays, in preparation for the week-end market. The demand is very high by the locals for this food is a favorite for either Saturday night’s dinner or Sunday’s breakfast, or both.
Tobagonians have a very sweet tooth for the home made ice-creams as well. The favorite flavor being obviously coconut. The ice-cream is usually served with sponge cake, fruit cake and sometimes bread pudding or even pone.
There is the favorite “coconut drops” as well, sugar cakes, green papaya balls, tamarind balls, starch cakes.
In the line of drinks of Tobago, you have the favorite lemonade, lime squash, sour-sop punch, mauby ( made from a bitter bark), sea-mass, sorrel drink, ginger beer, lots of home-made fruit wines. Lots of fresh fruit juices grown from the land is also the pride of Tobago.
(4) POLITICS AND GOVERNMENT.
The islands of Trinidad and Tobago are connected politically; in other words, they are one nation, under one flag. In colonial times, Tobago was governed by England, and was in the late nineteenth century, attached to Trinidad. That attachment was not desired by either island, but was thrust upon them by the British authority to suit its own convenience. At the time when the attachment took place, Tobago’s ties to Trinidad was not at all extensive. Tobago had closer connections with Barbados and Grenada than with Trinidad, but because Trinidad was geographically closer, the two islands were brought together much to the displeasure of Tobago’s population. The two islands are not alike in the least. There is nothing of one that brings the other to mind. Tobago’s way of life, culture, ideology, historical experiences, heritage are totally different.
After its attachment in 1889, Tobago was at first governed completely from Trinidad, but it was a constant battle, for many of the island’s interests were left unattended and there was an unfair disparity in the benefits given to its citizens and those given to the citizens of Trinidad. A series of attempts at providing some form of resident administration in Tobago were made, but to no avail. None of the solutions worked whatsoever.
By 1980, the people of Trinidad and Tobago came to terms of a new political reality regarding Tobago. The Tobago House of Assembly Act No: 37 of 1980 established the “House of Assembly” as a unique entity, with the stated objective of making better provision for the overall administration of the island than had been made before.
Since 1960, under the Government, the People’s National Movement, Tobago was governed under the “Ministry of Tobago’s Affairs” in charge of the overall administrative affairs of Tobago. However, in 1976, the Member of Parliament for Tobago East, the Honourable A.N.R. Robinson, tabled a motion asking that internal self-government be granted to the island. Mr. Robinson’s motion had been timed to coincide with the national General Election of 1976, and that election, the electorate of Tobago totally rejected the P.N.M.’s running the nation’s government at the time. As a result, the Ministry of Tobago Affairs was totally dismantled. Confusion resulted and Tobago experienced considerable difficulties. Her demand for self-determination was a response to the situation. Her island have never wanted to be attached to Trinidad in the first place and had also felt that she had lost economically in the exchange of benefits. She wanted to manage her own affairs. The request for internal self-government was aimed at removing the hardships and inequities suffered by the people of Tobago by providing for them to administer their own affairs as they see fit.
When the Act of 1980 came into force, it became the responsibility of the Tobago House of Assembly to assist the central government in its formation and implementation of policies in specific areas of administration and development of Tobago. However, in 1996, this Act was repealed and replaced by a new Tobago House of Assembly Act which was to provide for the membership powers and functions of the THA, its new Executive Council and all matters related thereto.
There are now 12 elected Assemblymen, and 4 Councilors, and there is a provision also for a Presiding Officer who may or may not be an Assemblyman or Councilor. These Assemblymen are elected by the people of Tobago in a local election process contested by national political parties and it is the electorate that decides which party will obtain majority seats and thus govern the House of Assembly, and which will be in the minority and consequently form the opposition. After the election, the Assemblymen have the responsibility to elect from among themselves the Chief Secretary and the Deputy Chief Secretary of the gathering. Following these two appointments, a Minority Leader is appointed. This is the Assemblyman who in the opinion of the President commands the support of the largest number of Assemblymen who do not support the Chief Secretary; the Minority Leader can thus lead the opposition of the House.
After the swearing in of the Minority Leader by the President of the Republic, the Presiding Officer, under the advice from the Chief Secretary appoints three Councilors and then one more under the advice of the Minority Leader, thus making four Councilors in all.
Under the new Act, the functions and powers of the Assembly have increased and broadened and the body has been given full rein in the exercise of its powers to do what is necessary for the effective running of the island.
All expense incurred by the Assembly, including the salaries of its officials are paid from a fund- the Tobago House of Assembly fund- which was established under the earlier Act of 1980 for that very purpose. These monies are provided by the Parliament of the Republic out of monies appointed for the servicing of the financial year.
Regardless of its powers in relation to the administration of Tobago, however, the Tobago House of Assembly has absolutely no authority in regard to matters pertaining to the Republic of Trinidad and Tobago, and furthermore, still rests under the control of the national Parliament. Considering that no control whatsoever from Trinidad is desired by Tobago, this state of affairs seriously exacerbates the tension between the two islands.
(5) FESTIVALS AND CELEBRATIONS.
CARNIVAL.
Carnival is the earliest festival in the Trinidad and Tobago calendar year. It takes place before the start of the Lenten season. There is the calypso tent as well in Tobago just like in Trinidad where calypsonians come out and entertain the guests with their latest songs. The carnival season is jam packed with events which are all driven by music of that year from the calypsonians who so happens to be the heart of all the music, for it is their music that is being played all the way until the end of carnival.
There are steel band competitions and concerts, there are numerous fetes- public and private, there’s brass band music. The start of the carnival celebration on Monday morning is J’Ouvert meaning “daybreak”. In the years gone by, Tobago, with their extensive folklore stories being said all year long, started portraying these folklore characters on the streets during the J’Ouvert celebrations, as this event takes place from 4 o’clock in the morning; best suited for these characters to show themselves. As time passed by, fewer of these folklore characters appeared and J’Ouvert was eventually taken over by old mask characters. Old Mas became the traditional mask played at this part of the carnival and has remained thus. Old Mas, as the name implies is simply a put-together affair. Nothing fancy about this type of mas. The masquerader playing this mas puts on any type of rag, paper, flour bags, old cans, old plastic bottles, anything at all to make you look odd. The aim is to look humorous or decrepit-looking.
Carnival in Tobago is not as hectic as Trinidad. They are not as organized as Trinidad as far as pretty mas is concerned. Apart from the old mas portrayals, Tobago people love their “mud mas” all the way through the carnival. Soil and water are mixed together to the consistency of mud is actually a costume. Mud mas in Tobago is serious business. Old mas is generally less organized and more informal than the fancy mas, but mud mas makes for greater freedom. The mud is specially prepared. Mud mas practitioners get together in the backyards to mix the mud they will use. Soil that has been collected in the different parts of the island are placed in separate drums with boiling water. They must not be mixed at all. Separation matters a lot because soil fro different places varies in colour and quality. Moriah for example has a dark soil, while Calder Hall’s is cream, and Patience Hill’s soil is red. Even though coated in mud, maskers have an identity. Once mixed, the mud is stirred frequently until carnival to prevent settling, and also to it is added some form of purifier as protection for the maskers skins.
EASTER CELEBRATIONS.
Easter is school vacation time. Trinidadians flock into Tobago to soak in the sun and partake in the island’s festivities. The Easter Monday goat race and sports in Mount Pleasant and the Easter Tuesday goat and crab races at Buccoo draw the crowd like magnets. How is a goat motivated to run? Ever thought of that? These Tobago goats have been so well trained to race that they’re eager to do it. Once the gates fly, they’re off. Buccoo is the more popular venue, being the first place to entertain the event in 1925 up until this day. Easter Tuesday is an unofficial half-holiday in Tobago.
There used to be horse racing in Tobago, but not again. Goat and crab races filled that gap. The goats are groomed to perfection. There are no raggedy-looking creatures here at all. Their coats are shining and smooth, brushed to glistening perfection. Horns have been polished and decorated with gay ribbons. A runner runs alongside his goat, guiding it with a rope and coaxing it with a slim switch. The race is as much a test of the runner’s endurance as it is of the goat’s. There are at least eight to ten races and all the appurtenances of horse racing, including an announcer.
Crab racing, understandably far less physical for the jockey, is just as exciting. Crabs, never develop a feel for the sport like the goats. The crabs scurry rather than run. The crabs run sideways instead of forward, and that is how the race is. The jockey guides the crab by a string tied to its body in order to prevent the creature from bolting down the nearest hole or for that matter, getting hold of someone’s toe with their gundy or claws. The jockey also use a light stick to guide in the direction towards the winning line, but this is not easy, for apart from being strictly sideways scramblers, crabs are also quite single-minded and intent on escaping. The first crab to cross the line, facing whichever way, wins.
HARVEST FESTIVALS.
Village harvest festivals are cozy, authentic expressions of the Tobago way of life. These festivals usually take place on Sundays very frequently during the year. The harvest is strictly a village affair. Each village has one harvest day- always a Sunday. Enormous amounts of food is cooked, and usually men who do the cooking. Women are the hostesses, serving guests and making them comfortable. They welcome friends, family, visitors and even passing strangers into their homes, offering food and drink and hospitality. This is one of the very few occasions when one gets to see Tobagonians at home. It all home style. The food is traditional Tobago diet. It can be cow head, or pork cooked in a variety of ways, wild meat such as iguana, or manicou, beef, chicken, coo-coo, ground provisions, green figs, plantain, etc,etc.
Harvests are church-based. In most villages, there a special church service and after that, the rest of the day is spent in preparing for one’s visitors.
There were large cocoa plantations and estates in eastern Tobago and so, money for entertaining guests was more available. So, it is believed that the entertainment features of harvests started in eastern Tobago, in particular “Pembroke”. Gradually, the practice moved westwards. Much of the past harvest activity has changed. Churches no longer collect produce from the villagers for sale, people stopped the afternoon vocal musical works. The morning church service still remain, the genuineness of the hospitality and welcome is still afforded to the visitors, and after all, it is still an expression of thanksgiving for abundance.
HERITAGE FESTIVALS.
Heritage Festival outstrips all other Tobago festivals when coming to popularity. This festival is even more important than carnival, and it allows for greater mixing and mingling among the people than Christmas which is essentially a family affair. Every year since its inauguration in 1987, this festival re-enacts various aspects of Tobago’s folk heritage. This festival reminds people of their roots and presents life in those far-gone days of slavery and post-slavery in ways which appeal to the present day Tobagonians, making them relive and further appreciate the tails of survival and experience told by their parents and grand-parents.
The festival goes for a period of 14 days, at the end of July and the beginning of August each year. Participating villages usually showcase their contributions on their home ground within the village itself, at a time allocated to them by the “Heritage Committee”. This way, affords the opportunity for the visitors in particular to absorb local colour directly within the village and also to participate in the fun and excitement. Village cooks get the opportunity to show off their culinary with dishes for what the area maybe well recognized. Hundreds of people attend these shows.
At all Heritage gatherings, the range of food is great. All the old Tobago’s favorites appear: provisions, pound plantain, cassava coo-coo, breadfruit balls, pork, fish, beef, chicken, etc.
Les Coteaux and Moriah are high on the Heritage favorites, but in any given year, about 17 villages take part, and Tobagonians are always willing and eager to enjoy what each has to offer. Village rivalry is very high, but so too is the level of fun.
The fiddle, the tambrin, and the drum are the major instruments of Heritage music. The drum especially is very evident of the re-enactment of traditional African feast with much drumming and dancing to honor ancestors. The essential part of this event is the ceremonial roasting of a pig, which is done earlier in the day. The meat is then made available for sale by show-time.
Plymouth is famous for its old time carnival and moko-jumbies. Roxborough has its Belmanna Riots. All in all, Heritage Festival comes off as a great and satisfying time for participants and viewers alike, giving visitors the opportunity of experiencing some of the things which are so uniquely Tobagonian.
GREAT RACE AND CARNIVAL FEST.
After the Heritage Festival, Tobago moves straight to the Great Race, an annual powerboat race where the finest and fastest boats challenge one another across the Caribbean Sea from Port of Spain, Trinidad all the way to Store Bay, Tobago; a 38 mile race through sometimes rough waters where at sometimes, competing boats do not complete the journey. At the finish line, apart from the gala event with regards to the distribution of prizes, there is a huge beach party where the Djs’ strut off their stuff.
On September, a new festival called the “Carnival Fest” is now a new feature in Tobago for the past three years now and the popularity is getting there. This event is run by the “National Carnival Band Leaders Association” of Tobago. This event is to try and bring visitors to the island out of season to ease the strain of the lean months. Once really successful, this event can make Tobago into the only place in the world with three carnival parades.
CHRISTMAS.
Christmas in Tobago is family time. The shopping for gifts, lots of food, decorations, hearing the children’s excitement, the expectations, church worship are all part of Tobago’s Christmas. The Christmas of today is different from the Christmas of yesteryear, for not as many kites are flown today in the Christmas breeze.
(6) SPORTS.
FOOTBALL.
Like everywhere else in the world, football is the most popular sport in Tobago. On this small island Tobago, there are numerous places where one can play football. There are wide, flat beaches (at high or low tide), narrow beaches (low tide only), muddy under prepared savannah grounds where in the rainy season, it is muddy all around which is quite enjoyable, the quiet roadside where not much traffic passes through, and the well-prepared football field. All the places except the well-prepared football field, players prepare their make-shift goal posts which is usually three and a half feet wide on either side of the playing field and they engage in what we call “small goal” football. There is no referee, no penalty kicks, one can be sub at any time and you can have any amount of subs.
Whether it is rainy or dry season, Tobagonians play football right through. Playing football on the beach is often met with strong objection from the womenfolk as it interferes with their sunbathing, but men are quite likely to join in the fun, whether you know the players or not; just ask the question and the next thing, you’re in the game.
Apart from the unorthodox locations for playing football, there are standard football grounds and stands in which organized clubs and teams play formal games. Every village has a field and there is a village football league that battles for football supremacy. Inter-village competitions are exciting, for they draw large crowds and this promotes healthy inter-village camaraderie. Primary and secondary schools also have a league respectively and they also battle for football supremacy. The secondary school champion team of Tobago will travel just 21 miles across the Atlantic Ocean to Trinidad where they will further compete for overall football supremacy against the champions of the various parts of Trinidad, that is the eastern, southern, northern and central champions.
The development of football in Tobago continues to suffer due to mainly the lack of good competition at any level. The cost for trainers, coaches, and other aspects that is contributory to the success in the upliftment of the game is very costly. However, within recent times, there are English teams coming to Tobago in their off-season to train, as well as to look at the local talent. Once good talent is found, in order for the homeboy to further develop, he must leave the island and head overseas. With the semi-professional football league now in swing in Trinidad, a number of Tobagonians have taken the opportunity and headed there to try to further enhance their potential for the bigger stage.
CRICKET.
Cricket is the most popular sport in the whole chain of the Caribbean. Cricket is the sport of West Indians. Every Tobago village, there is a well worn turf wicket for inter-village or inter-club games where white clad young men show off their talent whether with the bat or ball.
The “Tobago Cricket Association” sees to the basics and the development of the game by promoting games on the island and hosting regional teams, visiting English clubs and adult and young teams from Trinidad. Like football, Tobago feels the brunt of the lack of good competitive cricket, especially at school level. The cost of getting teams to Trinidad on a regular basis to take part in National competitions, for this requires sponsorship which is an uphill climb. The cost of the equipment is also very expensive, limited professional playing facilities and a scarcity of personnel to train the young people are all factors that contributes to the lack of true upliftment of the sport.
Like football, cricket can be played on the beach, on the quiet roadside or in an abandoned playing field. This type of cricket is what we call “wind ball cricket” where the ball is softer than the leather ball that is used in the more professional aspect of the game. On the roadside, a dustbin or a piece of wood, about three feet in height by two feet in width is the wicket, and on the other side, there is a small stone that gives the bowler the gauge as to where he is to bowl from. On the beach, the wicket can be made by placing three pieces of branches that can be found anywhere on the beach. Quite innovative indeed. The bat can either be a piece of wood carved out in the actual shape of the bat, or you can keep it totally natural by looking for a piece of coconut branch and make that do.
OTHER SPORTS.
Organized sports started in Tobago in 1980 when the responsibility for the provision and maintenance of recreational and sport facilities in the several districts of Tobago devolved upon the Tobago House of Assembly. Out of the Assembly came the establishment of the “Tobago Sports Council” whose aim is to encourage and promote all aspects of sports at all levels in the island.
Sport development is seen now as a village-centered activity that aims at finding young, gifted individuals. The Council has forged ahead in promoting special awards, track and field clinics, lawn tennis clinics for children and adults, the revival of track and field competitions, inter-village draughts competition.
Netball is a favorite women’s sport in Tobago, and through financial assistance and seminars, skills were improved and there is now an even greater public interest and awareness of the sport.
Golf is another popular sport in Tobago, though not by the locals. This came about due to the famous 18 hole championship golf course at Mount Irving that attracts a lot of top golfers from across the world.
Cycling is also popular in Tobago and the island boasts of their very own champion at an international level.
(7) AGRICULTURE.
Fruits are plentiful in Tobago. All year around, there are always some fruit in season. There are: mangoes, sapodillas, grapefruits, oranges, mandarins, bananas, papaws (papayas), pineapples, watermelons, chennet, peewah, sour sop, sugar apple, pomerac, pomme-cy-there, carambolla, mammee apple, star apple, cashew, guava, coconut, and a variety of plums, portugals, tangerines, shaddock, sapodilla.
There are large and small estate crops such as: coconut, cocoa (small scale), root crops like yam, dasheen, eddoes, cassava, sweet potatoes, legumes such as pigeon peas, pumpkin, tomato, christophene, bodi.
Livestock in Tobago is growing continuously as time goes by. The beef cattle, sheep and goats are in abundance. They are cultivated especially for the meat market, with many of them going to the Trinidad market. Pigs also make a worthwhile contribution as well. There are also rabbits, chicken, and ducks.
The beekeeping sector is very active. Tobago is fast becoming well known for its honey. Tobago takes full advantage of the mite-disease and Africanized-bee free status to produce great multi-floral honey.
The Tobago House of Assembly looks after its farmers through a range of agricultural stations. The main agricultural office for crops is at the Botanic Gardens in Scarborough. There is also one at Goldsborough, while Louis d’Or’s nurseries supply ornamental plants, vegetable seedlings and fruit tree plants. Two breeding units are located at Runnemede and Charlotteville, and livestock demonstration takes place at Louis d’Or and Hope. At Studley Park, there is a forestry nursery which produces forest species such as: mahogany, cypre, and cedar, popular woods for furniture in the island.
The Department of Marine Affairs keeps register of fishermen and boats and they also see about reef management. The Department also see about the monitoring of the many fish processing plants, supervises the data collection on fish and trains people under the recommended international standards.
There is a large variety of fishes founded in the waters of Tobago: dolphin, tuna, shark, albacore, snapper, kingfish, bonito, salmon, jacks, wahoo, cavalli, flying fish and others. The fishing methods of the local fishermen include trolling, banking, the use of nets and lures. The fishing industry has traditionally been an important activity in Tobago, providing the main economic support for many coastal villages.
Generally speaking, the future is very bright for all aspects of agriculture in Tobago.
(8) DIVING.
Dive sites are numerous in Tobago. Each diving site has something special to offer. There is: London Bridge, Bookends, Flying Manta, the Japanese Gardens, Black Jack Hole, the Sisters Rocks, Mount Irving Wall, Culloden Bay, Buccoo Reef and many others. There are about 44 species of corals in Tobago, both hard and soft corals. There is also the world’s largest “Brain Coral” which is about 12 feet high by 16 feet in width. The nutrients that is passed onto these waters from the waters from the coastlines of Venezuela, the “Orinoco River” attract large pelagic fishes such as: Sting Rays, Manta Rays, Dolphins, Sharks, Tarpon and Turtles. This water is filthy rich in plankton. The visibility of the water is excellent splendor of the corals underneath.
London Bridge has a depth of about 110 feet and dives are very rewarding for skilled divers, but can be very dangerous if one is not careful. This dive, one can see snappers, spotted moray eels, sea whips, golden crinoids, large colonies of star corals and sea sponges.
Little Tobago is very highly rated by divers because of the variety of creatures that are found there. As you dive, there are manta rays that are not afraid of you. They are quite friendly.
Sisters Rocks offer very good diving as well. Angel fishes in abundance and variety of corals are found here.
Mount Irving Wall is well known for its night time displays of octopuses, lobster and orange ball anemones. The whale sharks at a time in around 1977 was seen at “Divers Dream” which is three to four miles off Pigeon Point. This present day, these whale sharks can be seen a bit more regular of St. Giles Island and Little Tobago.
Goat Island offers excellent snorkeling where the great Japanese Gardens await your arrival. The world’s biggest “Brain Coral” can also be seen here.
The “Scarlet Ibis”, the former ferry that used to transport people, vehicles and other things from Trinidad to Tobago sunk just about a quarter of a mile off Mount Irving Bay on the Caribbean Sea coast. She was renamed “MAVERICK” after being sold by government. She was sunk not just to manufacture more undersea excitement, but with the ecological aim of reducing the impact on Mount Irving Wall by giving divers another dive option in the area. This experiment has proven to be quite a success; so much so that the “Dive Operators Association” are contemplating repeating the exercise with another boat off Speyside.
(9) SNORKELLING.
Tobago also caters for the snorkeler who does not want to go far out into very deep waters. Just off Mount Irving Beach- there’s an interesting reef, very good for snorkeling. There you will see a wide variety of fishes, strangely shaped rocks and very large sea fans moving in the tide. There are also parrot fishes, eels, trigger fishes, grunts, butterfly fishes.
Buccoo Reef is the old time favorite snorkeler, has suffered greatly because of its accessibility where in low tide, the water is just knee height, and people visiting this reef easily take away the sea fans and corals for souvenirs hereby causing great damage onto the reef over the time. The reef however is ten acres in size and is still beautiful, but the damage had been done. There are still a good population of crabs, eels, fishes, etc.
Other places where snorkeling is easy and exciting are at: Black Rock, Plymouth Back Bay, Store Bay, Castara Small Bay and Englishman’s Bay. These places are easy to snorkel and no guide is necessary. There is much to see.
KNOWING TOBAGO INSIDE OUT.
Getting to know Tobago inside out is so easy, its like taking candy from a child. As soon as you disembark off the aircraft, there are so many top class hotels and great guest houses to choose from just a stone throw from the airport. No taxi is needed whatsoever, for after you clear immigration, based on where you will be staying, someone will be there to render assistance once you put things in place in advance.
When you settle in your room, the action now start. STORE BAY is easily the most famous and popular of all of Tobago’s beaches. The water is absolutely clear and great with its fine, white sand that is very firm underneath in the water. As said earlier, snorkeling is very good here, for there is a little reef with a variety of fishes and other interesting creatures that thrives in this reef. The sea is generally calm for most of the year, but as expected, at times, things can get a bit rough. Even at its roughest times, Store bay remains magnificent. This beach is so close to the airport that once again, one can easily take a last minute dip close to departure time, or a first dip as soon as you arrive. It’s that close. Close to the beach, there are a number of shops selling a variety of great local foods Tobago style, foods like curried crab and dumplings, coo-coo and callaloo and fried fish, stewed conchs, stewed chicken with red beans and other dishes to choose from. There are also numerous car rentals and bike services to choose from. Certainly a dream that has become a reality.
As we leave Store Bay, a short distance is another popular bathing resort that is also great for relaxation. PIGEON POINT is where an old coconut plantation was. The Bon Accord Lagoon is situated at this beach as well. This beach is very long and the sand is very white together with turquoise water that is hardly ever ruffled. There is also a romantic jetty that is situated from the beach all the way to the water, and at the other end is a hut covered with coconut fronds. Seeing is believing, for the atmosphere here is astounding. The facilities at Pigeon Point is extensive. There are eating places, bars, changing rooms, bathrooms, toilets, deckchairs- all privately owned by the “Aquatic Club” which operates the place. There is an entrance fee to pay to enjoy these facilities; but one can use the beach and sea without payment. There are reef boats that will take you to the Nylon Pool and Buccoo Reef at regular intervals. This beach is very safe for the children, for Pigeon Point is virtually a lake, there is plenty of room for the kids to play and supervision is virtually effortless. On a good, sunny day, this beach is as close to being a paradise as anywhere in the world.
Not too far from Pigeon Point, in the Bon Accord village, there is the BON ACCORD LAGOON. Part of this area now has been away to housing for the locals and foreigners. But before housing came here, the entire place was a nature reserve, and the actual lagoon once supported a good assortment of birds, ducks, herons, crabs and other creatures with no human competition whatsoever. Now, seeing that houses are now being erected, the wildlife population has dwindled considerably. The lagoon though is still there, and even in other places where there are still no houses, there is still enough left on the old environment and vegetation to encourage crabs and other creatures.
BUCCOO is a very small village higher up “Shirvan Road”. This village is the home of the world famous “Nylon Pool” and its reef. Boats also can be hired by the jetty for reef tours or fishing trips as easily as at Store Bay and Pigeon Point. There’s also an excellent beach that goes around the bay at Buccoo called “NO MAN’S LAND”, a favorite and idyllic picnic stop. When at that point is quiet, you will truly experience “Heaven”.
STONE HAVEN BAY which is by Mount Irvine Bay Hotel in Black Rock Tobago. Along this route, there is the “Grafton Caledonia Wildlife Sanctuary”. This sanctuary is widely regarded as the best wildlife sanctuary on the island and is particularly well known for its birds, especially the motmots that are quite willing to take cheese especially from your hand in one quick swoop. A number of different species of birds can also be viewed here as well as other animals. Fort Bennet is a cozy little fort between Stone Haven Bay (Grafton) and Great Courland Bay.
BLACK ROCK is a small village with lots of friendly people, small shops and two churches. A great stop for a cold drink and some fruits to eat and a little chat with the villagers since there are always people hanging out. Black Rock Beach is small as well, and being situated at the northern end of Stone Haven Bay. The sand here is black and the sea water is totally transparent; the bathing here is excellent. Snorkeling is very good here as well.
After Black Rock is the Great Courland Bay, also known as Turtle Beach. Here is very historical where the Courlanders from Latvia made many attempts to settle here. Before the Courlanders came, there was a large contingent of Amerindians that lived here as well. Turtle Bay got its name simply because of sightings of the leatherback turtles coming here to lay their eggs. This beach is very wide and deep like a large round bowl with lots of loose sand in which turtles love to hide their eggs.
Next stop is Plymouth and Arnos Vale. Plymouth is the home of Courland Monument, the Mystery Tombstone, Fort James and the Lovers’ Retreat Rock.
The Mystery Tombstone is what it implies; a tombstone that intrigues the thousands who visit each year. This is the grave of Betty Stiven who apparently died in 1783 when she was 23 years old. She was a colored concubine of a white planter caught in the rigid social conventions of his time. He could not marry her regardless of the esteem in which he held her. She could however, bear his children and the polite society would pretend that none of it was taking place. Whatever the explanation, Betty’s story remains a mystery.
The Courland Monument is situated on the site of the 17th century Dutch-Courlander fortification. It was unveiled in 1976 during a cultural visit by the Courlanders in exile from different parts of the world. The monument itself represents freedom.
Fort James is a short distance from the Mystery Tombstone. This is the oldest fort site on the island. It was named after “James”, Duke of Courland, whose settlers were the first to occupy the area in 1650. The headland upon which Fort James stands is a beautiful one, commanding a spectacularly breathtaking view of Great Courland Bay, and it takes very little imagination to picture the scene as it was 200 years ago.
Lovers’ Retreat Rock is located off Rabbit Lane in Plymouth and there is no explanation as to why this rock was given this name. The scenery here though is very exotic- a great place for a picnic.
Adventure Farm in Arnos Vale is a good bird watching haven with a very pleasant garden. The area as a whole around Arnos Vale Hotel is very charming and here you can see a lot of motmots. The hotel here offers a daily afternoon tea to visitors. Here you can also take the opportunity to view the lovely variety of birds.
THE NORTHSIDE ROAD.
From Scarborough, on the Claude Noel Highway, there is Northside Road. This road is a ridge that is constantly winding, twisting and turning from one village to the next with astounding views of the Caribbean Sea from various vantage points high above sea level. From the time you head up Northside Road, you are already above sea level, so by continuing up hill, when you reach “Concordia”, there is a great view of Scarborough with its port and all of the surrounding areas.
The Northside Road cuts across the island from south to north in a north-easterly direction. This road is very mountainous indeed where in such places such as Moriah and Runnemede, the land slopes sharply down from the road. Careful driving from here is recommended, especially around the bends, for there are a lot of blind corners and it is vitally important that you keep to your own side of the road. Many front gates of houses, balconies, entrances of shops and bars are right on the road itself, whilst the rest of the building is propped by high pillars rising from the slope at the back. There are very few pavements here and pedestrians are often walking on the road as well. Yet, there is not a high accident record.
Further up the Northside Road you will be passing through “Providence”, then onto “Mason Hall” where the road on your right “Easterfield Road” takes you to the islands only reservoir “Hillsborough” that supplies Tobago with adequate supply of water all year round.
After Mason Hall comes “Moriah”. A village famous for its annual depiction in the Heritage Festival of an old-time Tobago wedding. The views are quite good here with many green slopes and endless valleys and distant hilltops to admire. This is where you are now about to venture to the ocean.
Over in “Golden Lane” to the west of Moriah, is the grave of “Gang Gang Sara”, a slave woman who was buried here. There is a great story of her coming to Tobago from West Africa and how she could not go back to her country.
Back on Northside Road, at Runnemede, there is an ancient silk cotton tree, a very tall and huge tree with a massive base. Around the bend leading out of Moriah, one will get a first view of what used to be called the “Pagoda House”, a beautiful house in its time which was built by Mr. Parkinson, who used to be the Queen’s photographer. He is dead now, and the house was gutted by fire. Since then, the house had been remodeled by its new owner, but people still refer to the house as Mr. Parkinson’s House. The house is nestled into a high hill that overlooks the Caribbean Sea and has a long distance view of the hills and valleys all around it.
Shortly after the Pagoda House, you will begin the descent to “Castara Village”. Beautiful green-blue waters surrounded by lush greenery mountains all round the village. The long deeply curved beach of white sand is popular with nestling leatherback turtles, and through nature, Castara Bay had made two more beaches known naturally as Castara Small Bay and Castara Big Bay. The bathing is very good at Big Bay, while not quite so good at Small Bay, though here has a small reef that makes snorkeling quite interesting. There are sting rays, barracudas, jacks, lobster, sardines and a host of small but very colorful reef fish. Castara is also a popular fishing village, and because of this, there are a lot of different species of sea birds constantly on the lookout for small fishes lurking around on the surface of the waters. Seine-pulling fishing takes place here frequently and this is quite an interesting exercise in which you can participate if you so wish. Also, in Castara, on a Thursday, in the yard of the Anglican School near the bay, village women sell their bread that they’ve baked in the old-fashioned clay ovens. Go early, for people come from far and wide to buy these loaves.
After Castara comes “Englishman’s Bay” and its nature reserve. There’s a short drive from the road to the beach, through a wooded area with fascinating clumps of bamboo, flowering balisier trees, hog plum trees, and naked Indian trees. This is a very pleasant beach for sunbathing and bathing as well.
After Englishman’s Bay comes “Parlatuvier Bay”. This is a sleepy little village where nothing happens here at all except the daily trips by the fishermen and children going to school. This is a bowl-shaped bay with a beach that grades steeply into the sea. This is nature’s way of warning you that you have to be very careful for your next step could be very deep indeed.
“Bloody Bay” is right after Parlatuvier Bay. This bay is so named because of a terrific battle that took place there, but now, there are absolutely no reminders of that battle except the name. All is calm and peaceful. Further up Bloody Bay, at the summit of the “Main Ridge”, there is a lookout which affords a dramatic view of the “Sisters Rocks”- a good dive location- and a wide expanse of the blue Caribbean Sea. An excellent stop to stop off, stretch the legs and take fantastic photographs. There are also female vendors at this lookout every day selling exotic concoctions of fruit juices such as coconut and passion fruit juices, papaya and orange juices, Carib and Stag beers, tamarind juice. They also sell a variety of cakes and breads- banana bread, pone, fruitcake.
Traveling along the Main Ridge, the road is long and winding all the way to Roxborough on the Windward Road on the other side of the ridge. The surface is excellent for driving.
SCARBOROUGH.
Scarborough has been the piece of ground most fought over by the British, French, Dutch, America from as early as 1654.
Scarborough is Tobago’s port. There is no other. This is because of its strategic location, its popularity was enhanced greatly. This is one of the major reasons why Scarborough was chosen as the capital of Tobago when Georgetown in Studley Park lost its status.
Today, Scarborough is still the seat of the island’s administration and the hub of all commerce and business activity as well. Scarborough is an active little town that is easy to get around, especially in a vehicle. The main area downtown Scarborough near the port consists essentially of businesses- shops, stores, supermarkets, banks, eating places, the market. At night, when the ferry dock at the port, Scarborough virtually shuts down leaving open some of the bars, restaurants, recreation spots and the only cinema. Scarborough is situated between the Claude Noel Highway to the north and the sea, Rockly Bay to the south.
Fort King George is situated on top of the hill overlooking the port where great views of the ferry docked at the port, and straight ahead of the beautiful array of beaches heading westwards. Situated across from Main Street, opposite James Park which is named after A.P.T. James, a popular Tobago politician now deceased is the rather beautiful building that houses the seat of administration in Tobago, the “Tobago House of Assembly”.
Scarborough’s residential area lies in this hilly part of town below the fort. There are churches up here, Anglican, Roman Catholic, and Methodist, together with junior and secondary schools and Scarborough Hospital, the only hospital on the island, is located at the top of the hill. This is a pleasant part of town, not at all restless or noisy, but with relaxed old houses, many of them very well kept, the homes of old Tobago families who have lived there for generations. In between these homes, there are one or two genteel guesthouses such as HOPE COTTAGE and MILLS GUESTHOUSE. These were well reputed from the days before tourism really caught on, when Tobago saw only a handful of regular visitors each year who were contented to be cosseted in the comfortable atmosphere that these homes-away-from -home provided.
The sea in Rockly Bay is shallow because of the reef out in the bay, and the famous “RED ROCK” that was at one time connected to the mainland, but is now starkly alone out in the ocean, buffeted by the Atlantic Ocean. The ocean here is quite interesting, but it is not really good for bathing any more as there is too much enterprise in the area and everything washes down into the bay.
The “Botanic Gardens” offer a different kind of scenery and relaxation. There are many interesting plants and trees, and also, because of the exalted position, good views of the surrounding terrain.
Scarborough market is opened throughout the week, but only on market days are stalls piled high with produce. The market is a colorful and vibrant place with vendors in bright aprons and head ties.
Bacolet, one of Scarborough’s residential areas is really located on the outskirts of the town. There is excellent bathing at “Little Bacolet Bay”. Bacolet Point and Bacolet Gardens are up-market areas with large homes, spacious grounds and an atmosphere of quiet gentility. Fort King George is directly above Bacolet and at night, the beam from the lighthouse probes the darkness of the Atlantic Ocean and stretches out over the waters to greet its sister light at Point Galera in Toco, Trinidad.
Despite the fact that downtown Scarborough can be hot and dusty, particularly in the middle of the day, there is much native colour and excitement in the day-to-day activities of this little space. Fish vendors in their vans by the roadside blow on conch shell to attract the customers and they call out the names of their catch. Trucks from hardware stores laden with bricks, rolls of wire cement, sand trudge along causing traffic jams; drivers of route taxis call for passengers to Plymouth, Store bay, Buccoo; and sno-cone vendors blow their whistles or ring their bells in an attempt to lure customers into purchasing their cooling concoctions.
Fort King George stands 452 feet (138m) above sea level. The fort is the largest and most imposing of all Tobago’s forts. This fort was also the most important because of its position and the wide area it commands. Its history has been almost as chequered as that of the island itself, for despite the fact that it was the English who started its construction in 1769 under the command of Lord George Montgomery, by making a parade ground and the construction of barracks and kitchens to accommodate the two companies of soldiers, the English never got to complete the project. That was left to the French who in 1786 finally completed the fort and named it “Fort Castries”. In 1789, the French renamed it “Fort Republique”, and in 1790, “Fort Liberte”. But that situation did not last that long either, for the British retook Fort Liberte in 1793, returned it back to the French in 1801, took it again in 1803, and finally kept a garrison of 600 men there until 1854.
Today, as Fort King George is no longer concerned with war and is no longer needed for the island’s protection, the fort stands as a proud guardian of Tobago’s past. From all aspects, the aerial view is “ASTOUNDING”. There is a commanding view of the entire sweep of Rockly Bay all the way down to “Lowlands Point”. Only ten of the original thirty structures of the fort’s complex have survived the ravages of time and weather. Among these are the officers mess, the powder magazine, a water tank, the commander’s residence, the military hospital, and the prison.
There are huge trees on the fort with the most prominent being the huge “samaan tree” that is located at the lower level of the fort over a fascinating old building made of rock and stone. There is also a particular group of royal palms looking over on Rockly Bay that is very striking.
The Tobago museum and one other government department are also located up at the fort and to reach the fort itself, one must pass through the grounds of Scarborough Hospital.
Fort King George is truly a beautiful place. Great time to visit here is either early in the morning or late in the evening, on the brink of sundown. Each time one visit this fort, there is always new pleasures to savor. The pleasure of its trees and shrubbery, its silence, its pleasure of other people visiting this fort to also enjoy the atmosphere.
Tobago Museum is located in the old barrack guardhouse at Fort King George. The museum houses two floors of displays and information:
Indigenous Amerindian artifacts- pottery, weapons, tools, etc.
Colonial and military historical documents and artifacts.
Historical maps, charts, paintings.
Rocks, fossils, shells, stamps and coins.
Household utility objects.
Documents of colonial administration, plantation and the slave era.
A small research library.
THE WINDWARD ROAD.
There are eighteen (18) villages along the Windward Road. The villages are: John Dial, Hope, Mount St. George, Studley Park, Goodwood, Goldsborough, Pembroke, Glamorgan, Richmond, Belle Garden, Kendal, Argyle, Roxborough, Louis d’Or, Betsy’s Hope, Delaford, Speyside, and Charlotteville. These names of the villages are all reminiscent of the island’s European settlement.
John Dial is the first village. Before the Claude Noel Highway was built, the Windward Road ran through Bacolet. Now with the highway running to the north of Bacolet and bypassing it entirely, the Windward Road officially starts at “John Dial”. Who was John Dial? The answer…. No one really knows. A guess is that he might have been a landowner of the plantation there or probably he might have been a slave named after his master.
Hope is a very small, scenic village. There’s an agricultural farm in this village. There is also a lovely stretch of beach “Hillsborough Bay”. Caution is that do not even think of bathing in the tempting waters, because there are rip tides along this beach which makes this beach very dangerous.
Mount St. George is a larger village than Hope. Much of this village lies inland. It’s a hilly village, and there are great sea views from some vantage points.
Studley Park is a village that was earlier named “Georgetown” which was the first Capital of Tobago. “Barbados Bay” is situated in this village and history says that the very first load of sugar “Made in Tobago” was shipped from Barbados Bay which was situated on the western part of “Granby Point”, an attractive scoop of a bay. Granby Point juts out into the Atlantic Ocean, having Barbados Bay on one coast and “Pinfold Bay” on the other, both of them very historic stretches of coastline. Out into the sea are two small offshore islands; the larger of the island is named “Smith’s Island” which is the home of the many gulls, boobies, pelicans, frigates. Directly overlooking Pinfold Bay is the “First Historical Café and Bar”. There is no other Historical Café and Bar in Tobago. Here is a rewarding stop for a cold beverage and snack where one gains a great deal information about Tobago through the many signs, posters and pictures decorating its internal walls that relate to every aspect of the island’s history.
Goodwood is a small village where you can enjoy excellent views of the misty mountains and small islands in the distance across the sea towards Roxborough. Lots of cedar trees in the hillsides, mixed with vegetable and flower gardens, breadfruit and banana trees.
Goldsborough is the home of “Rainbow Falls” and other special nature trails.
Richmond is a village and the home of the stately “Richmond Great House” which was built in the 18th century and was rebuilt from time to time, having been occupied by the original family that owned it for about 200 years. This house is now being used as an up market guesthouse.
Belle Garden is best seen right after you pass this village. The Bay is far from the main road, but you can turn onto the bay if you wish and take a look at “Belle Garden House” which occupies the site of the original Great House of the Belle Garden Estate and enjoy the great view that is to be had from this location.
Kendal and Argyle are small villages and are the home to the famous “Argyle Waterfalls” with great pools for bathing.
Roxborough is a very historical and interesting little town. The place of the infamous “Belmanna Riots” which is still re-enacted each year during the Heritage Festival. After Emancipation, because of the shortage of local labour, Barbadian farmers were imported to live and work on the estates.
Betsy’s Hope is another small village. An old silk-cotton tree, hoary with mistletoe, and bromeliads stands in a small graveyard in this village. Betsy was Elizabeth, the plantation owner’s daughter whose hope of freedom for her father’s slaves was never realized in her lifetime.
Louis d’Or is the home of the plant nurseries of the island. Tobago buys most of its fruit trees and ornamental plants here. Beyond the orchard there’s a cool river with a deep pool with its grassy banks providing very good picnic grounds.
Delaford is the home of “King’s Bay” with hundreds of coconut trees stretching down to the water’s edge. From this beach, you head into the mountains through rainforests with heavily wooded mountainsides. There are dangerous curves along the road, but the rich greenery is simply fantastic, and in the dry season, the blooming immortelles attract hordes of parrots and other birdlife. Suddenly, you are out of the woods, and you’re at the crest of the hill and below you is the unbelievingly blue sea and the distinct view of Goat’s Island and Little Tobago beckons. Speyside, with her quaint colorful houses on the steep hillsides forms a beautiful picture from where you stand. There’s a lookout with benches for your relaxation with fruit stalls offering refreshments.
Speyside is a scenic village. Great views of the sea. Little Tobago and Goat’s Islands are best seen from this village. There are lots of glass-bottom boats waiting to take you on a trip to these islands to snorkel and view the reef which is thought by many to be far more beautiful than Buccoo. Snorkeling and scuba diving here is exceptional. In Speyside, there is “Jemma’s Sea View Kitchen and Tree House Restaurant” serving lobsters and shrimp dishes. “Blue Waters Inn” where you can hire boats for the trip down the islands.
Charlotteville is just after Speyside. Your reward lies on top of “Flagstaff Hill” when you have you first view of the sleepy village, clustered around the imposing “Man O’ War Bay” which by chance had other names given to it by the various European settlers; names like “Grote Kuylsack Bay” by the Dutch and “Kurische Bay” from the Courlanders. The English named it “John Moore’s Bay” after Commodore John Moore of the Royal Navy and finally “Man O’ War Bay” because so many men of war and sailing ships used it for anchorage. “London Bridge” is a popular dive location and can also be seen from Flagstaff Hill. This hill was used to be part of the Observatory Estate, and was also a highly productive sugar estate in its day. Flagstaff Hill was the place during the War where the American soldiers erected a radio tracking station which allowed them to track the movements of German U-boats in the Caribbean.
Charlotteville offers cozy bays as “Sand Bay”, “Lovers Bay”, the “piece de resistance”, and “Pirates Bay”. One of the batteries that protected Charlotteville was “Cambleton Battery”. Built in 1777 to offer protection from American privateers during the American War of Independence.
No comments:
Post a Comment